Laurent Champs grows this fruit at his vineyards in Rilly- la-Montagne, a premier cru village in the Montagne-de- Reims. He farms his estate without any chemical inputs. Blending 70 percent chardonnay with pinot noir, he ages the base wine in large neutral-oak vessels, then leaves it for 30 months on the lees, in bottle. The wine’s limestone minerality reminded several tasters of white Burgundy, a firm structure balanced by sweet notes of honey and puff pastry. Dense, floral and layered in its complexity, this would be delicious decanted with a salmon soufflé