There is a simplicity to thiswine, made by one of New Zealand’s most historicwineries. But simple can be beautiful, particularly when it comes to red wines on the fuller end of the spectrum. At first sniff, pristine red fruit is woven with licorice, olives, herbs and slightly chocolaty oak. But as it opens in the glass, the oak fades and warm stone minerality takes its place. Firmly medium bodied, the tangy fruit is interlaced with savory herbs and balanced by lifted acidity and chalky tannins. This is cool climate Syrah that is unpretentious yet wholly sure of itself.