Sunny and brisk, this wine describes chalk-rich Champagne from the Côte des Blancs. The blend includes more than 40 percent from a perpetual reserve, with vintages going back to 1988, all Chardonnay from the family’s parcels in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Cramant, Avize and Oger. The wine’s ornate intensity includes scents of spring blossoms, oyster mushrooms, celery leaf and the nuttiness of long-aged Comté.