There are few vistas as dramatic as that seen from the midst of the vineyards of Dézaley, one of a series of Grand Crus along the northern shore of Lake Geneva. Vertiginous slopes and a loose gravelly soil threaten an imminent plunge, only to be broken (along with several bones) by the occasional terrace wall. With an ideal southern aspect, one that takes advantage of the reflected rays of sunlight from the lake below, and the looming presence of the surrounding Alps, the Chasselas that Louis Bovard grows here defies the neutral description that is so frequently applied to the variety. Medinette is rich and complex, subtly mineral and impressively poised – in short, a Grand Cru wine.